A well-chosen concealer can camouflouge a multitude of undereye skin concerns. Here's how to chose the right one for the job.
Problem: Dark Circles
Solution: Undereye circles can appear purple or bluish due to age-related skin thinning that reveals the muscle or blood vessels under the skin, according to Tina B. West, dermatologist at The West Institute for Skin, Laser & Body Contouring in Chevy Chase, Maryland. “Look for concealer that’s the opposite color of circles to counterbalance, like orange,” she says. “Then, on top of the concealer, apply a foundation that’s one shade lighter than normal.” But be warned: While peach or pink hues can help conceal bluish undereye circles, it’s important to find the right shade, stresses Lauren Ploch, board-certified dermatologist and member of the American Academy of Dermatology at the Georgia Dermatology and Skin Cancer Center in Augusta, Georgia. “Too much orange can make the eyes look ‘sick,’ while too much pink may bring out the violet-purple shade of undereye circles in some skin tones.” For light skin, look for light peach or pink tones; darker skin calls for medium or darker shades.
Problem: Fine Lines and Wrinkles
Solution: Crow’s feet are hardly something to crow about. Seek out formulas with ceramides—lipids that keep the skin moist—to counteract dryness and offer an antiaging boost, Ploch recommends. “Also look for skin-repairing peptides and antioxidants (such as vitamins C and E) to prevent further damage,” she says, adding that a lighter-weight concealer can camoufl age both lines and dark circles when layered with a highlighter. West notes that retinol is helpful for thinning skin and fine wrinkles, but the formula must have a low concentration to avoid irritation of the sensitive skin around the eye area. “For aging skin, set any concealer application with a translucent or slightly yellow-based loose powder so it doesn’t settle into fine lines,” she adds.
Problem: Redness
Solution: Ploch advocates using a green-tinted color correction formula to counteract redness—or choose a traditional concealer in a shade that’s slightly more yellow or green in tone than the natural skin.
Problem: Puffiness
Solution: Fluid retention triggered by factors such as seasonal allergies or salt intake often results in morning puffiness, thanks to fluid collecting in the facial area as we sleep. Choose undereye formulas containing caffeine, which helps de-puff by constricting blood vessels. “To counteract puffiness, clients should apply the concealer with a patting motion from the inner to the outer corner of the eye, which helps the product settle and encourages excess lymphatic fluid to drain away from the undereye area,” West explains. “You can also refrigerate any products for use around the eyes or try a cooling gel formula to quell puffiness.”
Problem: Acne
Solution: Ploch notes that thick, oil-containing concealers can cause milia (small, white, acne-like cysts) around the eyes in acne-prone skin. Choose formulas labeled noncomedogenic, and take note of ingredients. Interestingly, Ploch adds that refi ned mineral oil, applied to clean skin, is a safe choice for acneic types. “For a lighter touch, try a highlighter applied in a triangle shape below the eye,” she suggests. “For acne-prone skin, I prefer liquid or lighter-weight concealers with a wand or brush applicator.”
Problem: Sensitive Skin
Solution: Too-heavy formulas can also prove unflattering or unhelpful for combination, dry or sensitive skin. For dryness, West recommends lightweight products containing humectants (think hyaluronic acid or glycerin), which draw moisture to skin. “Look for concealers that treat dry skin without settling into wrinkles or caking on any flaky areas,” Ploch adds. “They can make everything look worse!”